In our wood working experience, we have made many changes to improve the finish quality of our park benches and outdoor litter bins. Outdoor furniture / wood elements do not have the same regime as indoor furniture. For this reason the dyeing preparation should be done with special products for outdoor environment. In order to protect the wood, it is essential to use specific dyes not only with fungicidal and insecticidal effect, but also with a pleasant appearance.
Acrylic: water-based, it is micro-porous, allowing wood to breathe and avoiding peeling or penetration of water. It has a light odor, is easy to wash with water, is healthier because it contains fewer VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and is ecological.
Of course these water-based products for wood finishing have their advantages and disadvantages.
- First of all, they are 100% bio-recyclable (does not pollute the environment)
- Healthier because it contains fewer VOCs (volatile organic compounds)
- They have no stinking smell (they have a slight odor but not annoying)
- They are not flammable (water based)
- Drying much faster (4-6 hours instead of 12-24 hours)
- Cleaner in application (the tools can be cleaned with warm water)
- Changing color in much less time
- More flexible film (stretches along with wood movements)
- Slightly less resistant (than solvent - every 2 years require a refreshment)
- Requires more sanding (wood fiber rises between layers)
- Slightly expensive ( than solvent based)
- Requires a controlled application environment (apply in a medium with low humidity and a temperature of 20 (+-5) degrees Celsius)
Tips for good preparation of the support
Preparing the support is essential. You have to respect a few stages so that the paint does not break and the material breathe and retain all its qualities.
When painting on new wood:
- Brush with an iron straw or sand, then remove the powder before applying the paint, for better adhesion.
- Degrease exotic wood with specific products (synthetic thinner), otherwise the paint does not adhere.
- Avoid applying paint to noble wood such as teak, merba, cedar, iroko.
When painting on old wood
- Before painting, apply an insecticide-fungicide treatment that will impregnate in wood to remove any unwanted micro-organism. Next, follow the same tips as new wood.
Good to know: never apply paint on wood that looks dry but may be damp inside.
When painting on lacquered wood
- Bring the wood to its rough state and sandwich the support, because it can not be painted directly over another lake. Then apply the same instructions as for new wood.
When painting on a wood already painted
- Wash the old paint thoroughly to remove microorganisms, then rinse.
- Scratch the more delicate areas to remove old scuffed paint.
- Sand to return to raw wood.
- Then apply the same instructions as for new wood.
Good to know: If the wood elements have already been dyed, an acrylic paint can be applied more easily.
On damaged wood
- If treated: peel the lacquered parts with an old lacquer layer, clean the wood (scraping, lacquering, smoothing) and prepare it again for the surface to be ready for painting (smooth, clean and dry).
- At the site of repairs: sanding and protecting the areas worked again, uniforming material or texture differences with a suitable lacquer.